Perbandingan Antara Fertigasi & Penanaman secara Konvensional

• Kualiti Hasil - Fertigasi: Tinggi / Konvensional: Tidak menentu
• Mengutip Hasil - Fertigasi: Lebih cepat dipetik hasilnya (pokok lebih subur) serta tempoh mengutip hasil lebih panjang / Konvensional: Lambat mengutip hasil lebih-lebih lagi ketika musim kemarau ataupun waktu musim tengkujuh yang berpanjangan serta tempoh mengutip hasil lebih pendek.
• Kejerihan - Fertigasi: Rendah / Konvensional: Tinggi
• Kesan ke atas alam sekitar - Fertigasi: Mesra alam (penggunaan baja dan racun yang terkawal) / Konvensional: Penggunaan najis haiwan boleh menyebabkan pencemaran alam (udara), air bawah tanah mungkin tercemar selain boleh menyebabkan hakisan tanah sekiranya ditanam di lereng-lereng bukit. Selain itu boleh berlaku timbun-tambah garam-garam galian dalam batas-batas tanaman (pH terlalu rendah dan EC pula terlalu tinggi-tanah perlu diperbaiki atau dirawat untuk mendapatkan hasil yang baik untuk tanaman musim berikutnya.
• Keselesaan bekerja - Fertigasi: Lebih panas kerana hawa panas di dalam rumah lindungan hujan. Boleh bekerja pada bila-bila masa walaupun di hari hujan. / Konvensional: Kurang panas, tetapi di kala hujan tidak boleh bekerja. Tanah pula tidak boleh dibajak dimusim hujan kerana terlalu lembut manakala dimusim panas yang berpanjangan, tanah pula terlalu keras.
• Pengurusan dan Penjagaan - Fertigasi: Struktur pelindung tanaman, jaring kalis serangga, sistem pengairan titis perlu diurus dan dijaga secara berterusan. / Konvensional: Pengurusan lebih kepada batas-batas tanaman, sistem perparitan dan saliran, alat-alat dan mesin membajak dan juga pam air
  

Kelebihan2 Hydroponic Berbanding Tanaman Di Atas Tanah/ Advantages Of Hydroponic Over Soil Culture

• Tidak memerlukan kawasan yang luas
• Masa menanam yang pendek bermakna lebih pusingan tanaman setahun
• Kerja-kerja yang membebankan dapat dikurangkan
• Air dapat dijimatkan
• Serangan penyakit & serangga yang dibawa oleh tanah dapat dielakkan
• Perosak tanaman (serangga & penyakit) akan lebih mudah dikawal tanpa menggunakan racun yang merbahaya
• Nutrient dapat dikitar kembali, bermakna penjimatan penggunaan baja
• Tiada masalah rumput di atas batas tanaman
• Hasil yang lebih tinggi
• Tiada atau kurang kejutan pada anak benih semasa mengubah (anak benih kurang atau tidak terencat)
• Musim menanam sepanjang tahun. Musim menanam tidak dipengaruhi oleh musim yang mungkin tidak menentu
• Kualiti hasil yang tinggi & sekata, suci dari sebarang sisa racun atau sisa gigitan makhluk perosak maupun penggunaan najis yang kontroversi (sebagai baja) seperti najis Khinzir, najis lembu dan sebagainya.
• Lebih banyak jumlah pokok boleh ditanam pada setiap unit luas kawasan (kepadatan tinggi memungkinkan hasil yang tinggi juga)
• Alam sekitar yang lebih bersih & harmoni. Tidak ada bau yang tidak menyenangkan seperti bau najis dan sebagainya
  

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• Crops can be produced on non-arable land including land with poor soils and/or high salinity levels - *The grower doesn’t have to have good soil since the systems, bags, etc. are placed on top of the ground.

• Isolation from diseases or insect pests usually found in the soil - *The plant roots are contained in systems, bags, etc. and do not grow through soil that might contain diseases or other pests such as insects and nematodes.*Additionally, white fabric ground covers can be placed on the greenhouse floor to further isolate the systems and plants from soil-borne pests.NOTE: The white fabric also reflects light back up into the canopy enhancing photosynthesis, allows for ease of cleaning and helps control humidity and weeds.
  

• Direct and immediate control over the rhizosphere - *Since the roots are either growing in water or growing through an inert medium, whatever is in the nutrient solution is bathing the roots. Therefore, nutrient concentrations and pH can be adjusted quickly.

• Higher yields are possible - *For field grown tomatoes yields are 10-40 tons per acre compared with around 300 tons per acre for tomatoes grown using greenhouse hydroponics. *Yields are greater due to better control over water, nutrition, EC, pH and diseases (plus control over environmental conditions – see below). *Yields are also higher due to the use of certain varieties bred for hydroponics that are also indeterminant (“vining” – see below).

• High density planting = minimum use of land area - *For tomatoes in the field a typical planting density is 4000 to 5000 plants per acre. Greenhouse hydroponic tomatoes can be 10,000 to 11,000 plants per acre! *Plants can be grown closer together because of the use of indeterminant (“vining”) varieties that take up less cross-sectional area than do bush varieties usually used for field cropping. This also takes advantage of the greenhouse volume, so that production is on a “cubic volume basis”.

• Efficient use of water and nutrients - *In soil culture water may be lost in wetting the soil beyond the reach of the plant roots or from the surface through evaporation.*In hydroponic culture, since the nutrient solution is enclosed in a bag, tube, etc., there is no loss AND little or no water stress in the plant. NOTE: When comparing monetary return for water use – for every gallon of water used to irrigate cotton the grower gets 1/10th of a cent. For every gallon of water used to irrigate hydroponic tomatoes, the grower gets over 30 cents!*Nutrients (which equate to $money$) are also not lost to the soil but retained in the root zone and in closed systems are replenished and recycled.

• Ease of cleaning the systems - *The aggregate growing media can be steam sterilized, or simply replaced. *Whole systems, including the drip irrigation system, can be quickly sterilized using 10% bleach and cleaned of salt build-ups using a mild acid (rinse well).

• No weeding or cultivation is needed.

• Transplanting of seedlings is easy – No transplant shock -* In soil culture the root mass can be easily disturbed during transplanting causing root breakage, plant stress and stunted growth for up to a week. *In hydroponic culture seeds are started in Rockwool cubes or plugs, then transplanted into larger cubes with holes made for that purpose (see Chapter 9 Seed Germination and Transplanting). There is no disturbance of the root mass, little or no root breakage and therefore minimal plant stress and transplant shock. Fruit of hydroponically grown plants is usually tastier - Hydroponically grown tomatoes, for example, are picked after they have begun to ripen, which includes the typical red color formation of the fruit (lycopene), the formation of gel within the locules and the characteristic taste. The grower can also raise the EC (electrical conductivity measuring salt levels) in the root zone that tends to enhance flavor.*Tomatoes from field grown plants (in many areas) are picked “green”, then “gassed” with ethylene which induces lycopene formation but does not enhance the flavor. Therefore, you get nicely colored fruit with little or no taste.

• Virtual indifference to the seasons. In the desert southwest crops can be grown year around including in the winter when field crops are not being produced and prices are higher.

• Control over the aerial (upper) portions of the plant.The air temperature and, to some extent, the relative humidity can be regulated to suit the crop under cultivation in the greenhouse environment.

• *Higher than normal (~330 ppm) levels of carbon dioxide (up to 1000 to 1500 ppm) can be reached using a carbon dioxide generator (burning natural gas) in order to enhance photosynthesis. The greenhouse environment is suitable for mechanization. *Includes personnel carts for plant maintenance and picking as well as future designs for automated harvesting “robots” (will require changes in plant structure).
  

Kelemahan Sistem Hydroponic Berbanding Tanaman Di Atas Tanah/Disadvantages Of Greenhouse Hydroponic Over Soil Culture

• Hydroponic system requires a large capital ($money$) input and energy input - *Any size commercial hydroponic or drip irrigation/fertigation operation (including injector irrigation systems, computer controls, etc.) will cost about RM300,000 per acre with the land itself costing RM4000 - RM8000 per acre (depending on location). *Energy costs can be high and can include those for heating (usually burn natural gas), cooling (usually use evaporative – fan and pad – cooling), electricity to run various types of equipment (some injectors, computer controls, motors, sorting/packing/storage equipment, etc.).

• The Hydroponic grower needs a high degree of competence in plant science, engineering, computer control systems and marketing.*Or experts in these fields needs to be hired. This is an intensive form of agriculture where a small problem can escalate to a major disaster very quickly.
  

• The Hydroponic technology is limited to crops of high economic value.*Since the initial cost of a large commercial facility is so high it would not be profitable to grow anything but crops of high economic value including tomatoes, colored bell peppers, cucumbers and even lettuce which, in a hydroponic greenhouse, can yield multiple crops per year.Plant diseases and insect pests may be more difficult to control.

• *Root pathogens that produce water-borne spores (e.g., zoospores of such fungi as Pythium or Phytophthora) can be devastating to plants growing in a “closed” Greenhouse system where the nutrient solution is recirculated since infected solution will circulate to all plants. NOTE: For treatments see Chapter 4: Plant Protection.*The greenhouse, with its controlled environment, is a perfect habitat for many types of insects, including those considered “pests” on plants such as white flies, aphids, thrips, spider mites, shore flies and fungus gnats. These pests may cause direct damage to the plants or may transmit viruses to the plants. NOTE: Beneficial insects that can be released. See Chapter 4: Plant Protection.*$0.80 – $1.00 per plant can be spent for insect pest control. That adds up!

Kaitan Hydroponic dengan Fertigasi, Aeroponic, Organoponics, Passive irrigation, Top Irrigation & Deep water culture

Jawapan kepada post di atas ialah Fertigasi, Aeroponic, Organoponics, Passive irrigation, Top Irrigation & Deep water culture adalah cabang kepada sistem Hydroponic kerana semuanya adalah kaedah penanaman tanaman tanpa tanah atau soilless culture. Marilah kita kupas satu persatu:

1. Fertigasi / 'Passive Irrigation' adalah gabungan sistem pengairan titis atau drip irrigation yang menggunakan konsep Hydroponic yang mana nutrient disalurkan kepada setiap tanaman menggunakan sistem transportasi menggunakan paip irrigasi disambungkan ke microtube dan akhirnya ke driper atau alat penitis. Tanaman menggunakan media rendah zat yang menggantikan tanah dan dengan itu dapat mengelakkan penyakit bawaan tanah. Kaedah ini semakin terkenal dan mempunyai reputasi yang meluas di Malaysia, Thailand dan Indonesia.
2. 'Aeroponic' pula adalah kaedah Hydroponic yang menggunakan sistem semburan kabus untuk menyampaikan nutrient ke akar yang mana akarnya berada dalam keadaan posisi tergantung. Sistem ini adalah cabang sistem Hydroponic yang mempunyai kadar penyaluran nutrient kepada pokok yang paling efisyen dan paling jimat dari segi penggunaan baja & air tetapi kos set up adalah antara yang paling mahal jika hendak dikomersialkan. Ianya semakin mendapat tempat di negara-negara Asean.
3. 'Deep water culture' - Adalah kaedah sistem hydroponic yang diapungkan atau digantung di dalam larutan nutrient yang diperkaya dengan oksigen terlarut. kaedah ini secara tradisinya menggunakan bekas plastik yang besar dan tanaman di letakkan di dalam bekas berjejaring yang tergantung di tengah-tengah penutupnya dan akarnya tergantung di dalam larutan nutrient.
4. 'Organoponics' - Adalah kaedah baru dalam sistem hydroponic yang mengubahsuai sistem asal kepada penanaman organik melalui sistem hydroponic. Ia menggantikan baja formula untuk hydroponic kepada baja kompos yang diperbuat dari bahan sisa gula. Dalam sistem hydroponic, akar pokok perlu mampu menyerap larutan nutrient. Organoponic menggunakan konsep yang sama, cuma bajanya dari jenis kompos yang dibuat dalam bentuk foliar atau larutan. Ia masih tidak menggunakan tanah tetapi tidak menggunakan sebatian kimia untuk larutan nutrient.

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The two main types of hydroponics are solution culture and medium culture. Solution culture does not use a solid medium for the roots, just the nutrient solution. The three main types of solution culture are static solution culture, continuous flow solution cultureaeroponics. The medium culture method has a solid medium for the roots and is named for the type of medium, e.g. sand culture, gravel culture or rockwool culture. There are two main variations for each medium, subirrigation and top irrigation. For all techniques, most hydroponic reservoirs are now built of plastic but other materials have been used including concrete, glass, metal, vegetable solids and wood. The containers should exclude light to prevent algae growth in the nutrient solution.

1. Passive subirrigation/Fertigation -The medium generally has large air spaces, allowing ample oxygen to the roots, while capillary action delivers water and nutrients to the roots from the base of the medium. The simplest method has the container constantly sit in a shallow layer of nutrient solution or on a capillary mat saturated with nutrient solution. A variety of materials can be used for the medium: vermiculite, perlite, clay granules, rockwool, or gravel. This method requires little maintenance, requiring only occasional refilling and replacement of the nutrient solution. This keeps the medium regularly flushed with nutrient solution and air.
2. Aeroponics is defined as a system where roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with fine drops (a mist or aerosol) of nutrient solution. The method requires no substrate and entails growing plants with their roots suspended in a deep air or growth chamber with the roots periodically wetted with a fine mist of atomized nutrients. Excellent aeration is the main advantage of aeroponics.
3. Deep Water Culture - The hydroponic method of plant production by means of suspending the plant roots in a solution of nutrient rich, oxygenated water. Traditional methods favor the use of plastic buckets and large containers with the plant contained in a net pot suspended from the centre of the lid and the roots suspended in the nutrient solution.
   
4. Organoponics is a hydroponic system converted to organic cultivation by replacing the inorganic fertilizer with compost made from sugar waste. In a hydroponic system the roots need to be able to absorb nutrients as they touch the roots' hairs. There is no soil for organic fertilizer to sit in and release nutrients. So far, many chemical additives and root stimulators have done a great job adding nutrients to the plant through hydroponic gardening. Some claim that soil grown plants produce better tasting and possibly more nutritious food than hydroponically grown plants although this statement is not proven.

Model untuk pelbagai bentuk sistem penanaman tanpa tanah Hydroponic

Pemahaman Tentang Hydroponic

Hydroponic ialah teknik menanam pokok tanpa menggunakan tanah dengan hampir keseluruhan keperluan nutrient diberikan kepada akar pokok dalam bentuk larutan. Tahukah anda bahawa teknik tanaman hydroponic telah digunakan pada zaman pemerintahan Nabi Sulaiman lagi?

Kenapa pokok boleh hidup tanpa tanah?
- Sebab pokok tidak memakan tanah tetapi memakan garam galian yang tersembunyi di dalam tanah. Tujuan hydroponik ialah untuk membolehkan garam-garam galian yang diperlukan itu tersedia kepada akar-akar pokok terus melalui larutan nutrient yang disediakan.

Pokok hidup dan membesar dengan mengambil sekurang-kurangnya 14 unsur yang berbeza dari larutan nutrient (bersama-sama 3 unsur-unsur lain iaitu oksigen , karbon dan hidrogen yang lebih penting) dari udara untuk membuat makanannya melalui proses fotosintesis. Unsur-unsur ini tidak wujud bersendirian tetapi dalam bentuk sebatian seperti kalsium nitrat atau zink sulfat dan lain-lain. Di dalam larutan, garam-garam sebatian ini tercerai dan membentul ion-ion. Sebagai contoh, kalsium nitray tersedia untuk pokok dalam bentuk Ca+ dan NO3-. Oleh itu kesemua unsur di atas hanya boleh diserap oleh akar apabila ianya dalam bentuk yang terlarut di dalam air.

Disebabkan nutrient yang diperlukan oleh pokok telah tersedia terlarut dalam air, ini bermakna bahawa akar tidak perlu lagi banyak dan panjang untuk mencari makanan. Sebaliknya air yang diperkaya dengan nutrient (boleh larut) yang mengalir kepada akar itu menyebabkan pokok mengeluarkan akar yang kecil/sedikit tetapi efisien. Sebaliknya tenaga yang dibentuk oleh daun dengan bantuan cahaya matahari, CO2 dari udara dan nutrient dari akar dimenfaatkan untuk membesarkan bahagian pokok yang lebih bernilai seperti daun, bunga atau buah. Ini juga bermakna bahawa kita boleh menanam pokok dengan lebih rapat dan tidak perlu risau berlakunya pertandingan antara pokok kepada makanan ya yang mungkin berkurangan disekeliling akar. Tetapi tidaklah terlalu padat sehingga ketidakcukupan ruang di bahagian atas pokok untuk mendapatkan cahaya matahari dan gas karbon dioksida.

Dalam sistem hydroponic, sisa nutrient yang tidak terambil oleh pokok dan yang tidak seimbang dengan mudah boleh dibuang. Kemudian dengan menambah air bersih dan dengan adunan nutrient seterusnya menukar kesediadaan nutrient kepada pokok. Dengan menukar keseluruhan nutrient membolehkan kita mengalirkan larutan lama keluar dari sistem pengairan dan media tanaman dan memberikan semula nutrient makro atau mikro dalam bentuk yang seimbang sekali. Dalam sistem tanaman konvensional, menambah makanan mudah dilakukan tetapi untuk membuang sisa yang berlebihan yang bertimbun tambah musim demi musim adalah amat sukar. Sisa yang berlebihan inilah yang akan menyebabkan toksik kepada tanaman pada musim-musim seterusnya

Set model Hydroponic melon di rumah saya di Taman Bukit Indah, JB
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The term hydroponics is derived from the Greek words hydro (water) and ponos (labour). Many people use the term hydroponics to describe any methods of growing that does not use soil (although some scientists dispute this definition) and in that sense ancient peoples such as the Babylonians and Aztecs used hydroponics, as nutrients were obtained from other sources. The mineral nutrient solutions used today for hydroponics were not developed until the 1800s.

Gericke originally defined hydroponics as crop growth in mineral nutrient solutions, with no solid medium for the roots. He objected in print to people who applied the term hydroponics to other types of soilless culture such as sand culture and gravel culture. The distinction between hydroponics and soilless culture of plants has often been blurred. Soilless culture is a broader term than hydroponics; it only requires that no soils with clay or silt are used. Note that sand is a type of soil yet sand culture is considered a type of soilless culture. Hydroponics is always soilless culture, but not all soilless culture is hydroponics. Many types of soilless culture do not use the mineral nutrient solutions required for hydroponics.

Billions of container plants are produced annually, including fruit, shade and ornamental trees, shrubs, forest seedlings, vegetable seedlings, bedding plants, herbaceous perennials and vines. Most container plants are produced in soilless media, representing soilless culture. However, most are not hydroponics because the soilless medium often provides some of the mineral nutrients via slow release fertilizers, cation exchange and decomposition of the organic medium itself. Most soilless media for container plants also contain organic materials such as peat or composted bark, which provide some nitrogen to the plant. Greenhouse growth of plants in peat bags is often termed hydroponics, but technically it is not because the medium provides some of the mineral nutrients.

Q & A On Growing Tomatos In Greenhouse

Tomato is a popular choice for any fertigation / hydroponic grower worldwide because of its ready market. If you ever consider to use this method to grow tomatos, this Q & A might help:

Q: How many greenhouses do I need in order to get rich?
A: Greenhouse tomato production is a highly technical horticultural business. Any new grower will make many mistakes while climbing the steep learning curve associated with starting out in the greenhouse tomato business. It advisable to start with one greenhouse, even if they intend to eventually grow an acre or more. It is much better to learn and make mistakes on one greenhouse than on 10. Starting too big is the number one reason for failure


Q: What variety of tomato should I use in the greenhouse?
A: Varieties bred for the greenhouse environment need to be used, rather than field or garden type tomatoes. All varieties are indeterminate, so that they can produce over a long harvest season. The most widely used variety in the United States is 'Trust'. Other varieties to consider are 'Match', 'Switch', and 'Blitz'. These are all Dutch hybrids.


Q: How often do I have to pollinate?
A: Pollination should be every other day, preferable between 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., when the relative humidity is lowest.

Q: How many plants can I grow?
A: Greenhouse tomatoes need between 4 and 5 square feet per plant. To determine how many plants you can grow, multiply the greenhouse width times the length and divide by either 4 or 5. Be sure to deduct any floor area used for packing, grading, sales, or equipment before dividing, since this is not usable growing space. Research at the Truck Crops Experiment Station has shown that increasing the spacing to 5 square feet per plant results in the same yield per greenhouse (i.e. higher yield per plant), even though the plant population is reduced by 20%. However, the number of physiological disorders decreases, resulting in better fruit quality.

Q: What pH should I use?
A: The nutrient solution (fertilizer dissolved in water) should be held at a pH between 5.6 and 5.8 for tomatoes grown in aggregate media (vermiculite, peat lite mixes, etc.).

Q: Some of the leaves on my plants are turning yellow. What is causing this?
A: Yellowing leaves can be caused by several situations. The following are the most common: 1) Early Blight (fungus) - If this is the cause, you should see small circular brown lesions on the leaves as well. The spots become larger. Eventually bottom leaves fall off. 2) Shading - As the plants mature, the bottom leaves get heavily shaded and naturally turn yellow as they senesce (age). This is not a problem. Any yellowing leaves are no longer productive and should be removed to improve air circulation. 3) Low nitrogen or potassium - If the nitrogen or potassium level is too low, yellowing will occur. Nitrogen deficiency shows up as a general yellowing of the entire plant. Potassium deficiency will appear as bright yellow leaf margins (edges) on otherwise green leaves. 4) Low Magnesium - Interveinal yellowing on older leaves is from low magnesium. It this is suspected, spray 2 TBL per gallon of magnesium sulfate (epsom salt) on the plants and see if they "green up" in a few days. For all suspected nutrient problems, a tissue analysis is recommended

Q: What is the fuzzy looking gray colored mold growing on my plants?
A: This is called gray mold (pathologists are also really good at naming diseases). The disease is also known as Botrytis, which is the causal organism. This fungus can become very serious, especially during a period of cloudy weather. It appears as a fuzzy greenish-gray mold, often growing on dead tissue. The first place to notice it is on dead flower petals, dead areas on leaves (i.e. from spray burn or mechanical damage), etc. In humid conditions, it can spread rapidly, while in dry conditions, it spreads only slowly. Improve ventilation, air movement, and apply fungicides as needed

Q: Why do the plants get flowers, but don't get fruit?
A: This can really cut into sales. There are several possibilities here. Any kind of stress on the flower can prevent fruit set. These include 1) temperature too high; getting much higher than 90º F is approaching the danger zone. 2) temperature too low; 3) drought stress - i.e. if the plants are wilting; 4) using too much nitrogen - this often creates very healthy, lush, dark green plants, but few flowers or fruit; 5) salt stress - if the EC in the root zone is too high. Other than stress conditions, it is important that flowers be pollinated every other day to get good fruit set.

Q: Why do the plants produce fruit that are too small?
A: While this is not as distressing as getting no fruit set, it can still be a serious problem. Fruit should be in the 8 to 10 ounce size for standard (beefsteak) greenhouse varieties. Possible causes include 1) poor pollination - be sure you are pollinating every other day if doing it by hand (those greenhouses using bumblebees should not have this problem, unless the bees are dead). If this is the cause, the seed count will be low. You can check this yourself by cutting the fruit transversely (left to right) and seeing if the locules are full of seeds or if seeds are scarce. 2) lack of water (wilting) can cut down on fruit development. 3) high temperature stress will limit fruit size. This is very common in the hot, humid southeast, especially in May and June. 4) shading during the cloudier months prevents full development of fruit. Be sure the greenhouse does not get shaded by large trees or tall buildings.

Q: Can I grow various crops, e.g. tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, lettuce, and strawberries, all together in the same greenhouse? Or will this create an unmanageable problem for me?
A: It is best not to grow multiple types of crops in the same greenhouse. Each has its own optimum environment (temperature, light, humidity, etc.), fertilizer, and water requirements.You could, however, grow a main crop, like tomatoes, and have a "few" of something else, just to try out. But, in that case, the system should be optimized for the main crop. If you decide to grow a larger scale of more than one kind of vegetable, it is best to grow each in a separate greenhouse which will be set up for the required conditions for that crop. But, be sure there is a market for that second or third crop. Tomatoes are the easiest to sell. Other vegetables will sell well in some areas, but not in others (for example cucumbers and lettuce).

Bagaimanakah Cara Menyemai Benih Yang Betul? / How To Do A Proper Seedling?

Menyemai anak benih memerlukan bahan-bahan berikut:

• Tray semaian dari plastik atau styrofoam ( kami selalunya menggunakan tray semaian 100 lubang kerana mudah dan cepat proces mengisi media dan menyemai)
• Media semaian - Peat-moss adalah disyorkan
• Pam spray

Mula-mula isikan media (peat-moss) ke dalam dulang semaian dan ratakannya. Kemudian isikan biji benih pada setiap lubang. Untuk benih tomato, hanya taburkan sahaja di atas media, tetapi bagi benih cili atau melon, benamkan sedikit sebahagiannya atau taburkan sedikit peat-moss di atasnya. Kemudian spray secara kabus dan merata ke atas anak benih tadi. Simpan di tempat yang gelap dan dingin. Bagi tomato dan cili, masa yang diambil untuk bercambah ialah 4-6 hari manakala melon mengambil masa sehari sahaja. Setelah ia bercambah, spray dengan air bersih 2 kali sehari (jangan guna larutan baja pada tahap ini) dan dedahkan pada 50% sinaran matahari). Apabila anda lihat cambahan iti telah mula membentuk daun dan bewarna hijau muda, maka mulalah spray dengan air berbaja cair (0.5-0.8mS.sm) dan dedahkan pada 80% matahari. Apabila telah mengeluarkan daun sebanyak 5 helai dan dasar batangnya berwarna perang kemerahan, pindahkan ke polibeg di ladang fertigasi yang telah diuji sistem pengairan titis secara automatik.

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Seedling means young plant or tree grown from a seed or in other words, An infant plant; a plant raised from seed. For the seedling preparation, we need:

• A styrofoam or plastic seedling trays (we normally use plastic trays which has 100 holes, its easier to use)

• Seedling media - the best is peat-moss, but you can also use vermiculite or perlite.

• Pump sprayer

First, pour the media (peat-moss) into the tray evenly on top of the screening. Then place seeds into the peat-moss; two seeds to each hole. For tomato seed, don't let the seed to be covered by the media, but for chilly seed & melon seed, the seed should be covered partly with the media (this is because tomato seed is too small, the media is too heavy for the sprouting). After that, use a pump spray to spray a misty plain water onto the seeds & media (don't make it too wet. Then place it in a cool and dark area for about 2-6 days. For chilly & tomato seeds, it takes 4 to 6 days to sprouts but for melon, it only takes 1 day. Make sure you spray at least 2 times per day with plain water (don't use fertilizer at this stage). When it starts sprouting, expose it to 50% sunlight in a cool place. When the seeds sprouts beginning to form a greenish small leaves, water the sprouts with low concentration of liquid fertilizer of about 0.5 - 0.8 mS/sm of using E.C meter (spray every couple of days and then expose it to 80% of sunlight to let the photosynthesis process to take place). When the seedlings reached their vegetation state (when 4 to 5 leaves are grown and the base of the stem become brownish colour), select the plants and place in the polybag filled with media with an automation ready drip irrigation system

These tomatoes seedling plants are almost ready to be transplanted into their individual points of drip irrigation system